Stripping The Guideboat

I’ve finally reached the point where I can begin stripping the guideboat.  After visiting a few boat building forums and consulting with Newfound Woodwork’s I decided to not follow the sheer line indicated by the the forms.  Because of the steepness in the hull curve the bends would become more compound and more difficult.  The solution is to flatten out the curve by using what are called cheater strips. They will fill in along the sheer line where it is its steepest. More on that later.

I also realized that in my previous post on making strip I did not cover the scarf joint portion as completely as I would have liked. I left out the process of actually joining the 2 strips together, so here it is.

Here is the jig I used to glue scarf joints.  Its a simple flat board with a strait edge fence to keep the mating strips aligned.

First I place a piece of wax paper where the joint will be.  I then apply some 5 minute epoxy to each strip where the scarf cut was made.  I then align the 2 strips and clamp them in place and apply a final clamp at the joint.  Don’t be fooled by the 5 minute claim, I let it sit for a few hours before I move it. I wait 2 days  before I actually use it.

Preparing to Start Stripping

Assemble everything you will need once you begin laying the strips.  Here is my list:

I use Gorilla White Glue

Small spring clamps, I like to have one per station.  These can be purchased for 99 cents at the big box stores.

A few quick grip clamps can also be handy.

1/4″ dowels cut into 3″ lengths.

1″ wide masking tape, explained later.

#4 X 3/4 pan head screws.

Japanese back saw

Wet rags for glue cleanup.

Step 1

Apply a couple coats of masking tape to each of the forms outer edge.  This will prevent the strips from being glued to the forms.  Duct tape or packing tape also works.

Step 2

Lay the starter strip cove side up.  Find and mark the  center of one of the scarfed strips and align it with the bottom of the form marked ‘0’.  Drive a #4 screw through the strip into the form.  Cut off any excess at each end leaving an inch or two beyond the stem. i also drove a screw into both the # 1 forms. Let the two ends droop down and make a mark along the top of the strip where it meets the stem.  Now make the same mark on each of the stems on both sides so you should have 4 marks.  Bend the strip to meet the line on the stem, apply some glue and clamp it.Do this for all 4 marks.  I then let it sit for 24 hrs.

Step 3

The second and subsequent strips begin by placing a thin bead of glue into the cove the entire length of the strip.  Then starting in the center you fit the next strip bead side down and secure with clamps. I also use some masking tape to keep them tight. You should see some glue squeeze out which can be wiped off with a wet rag.

After a few hours you can remove the tape and clamps and let things sit for several hours.  On a typical day I can do three strips each side. One early in the morning, early afternoon and at night.  As approach the bottom board and the bends become more difficult I may only be able to do one per side. Once the strip has is secure cut of the overlapping end with a back saw.  I leave a little extra so I can do a final trim to match the stem exact.

You can face some difficult areas along the strip length when the two strips do not seem want to go together well especially as you near the stem.  In that case a 1/4′ dowel and a quick grip clamp will help.

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After a few days I have about 20 or so strips applied.  It’s starting to take the shape of  a boat.

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I’ll check in again as I apply the cheater strips and approach the bottom board.

 

 

 

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